Redeveloped, re-energized Asbury Park attracts crowds to bars, boardwalks

Brace yourself for the sacrilege: This is no longer Bruce Springsteen’s Asbury Park.

The boardwalk area is no longer the worn boot-heel town of Springsteen’s youth. The Pony has a summer stage, draped in sponsor banners. Wonder Bar is freshly minted in Palace Amusement green, Tilly and all. Fluorescent mood lights illuminate the refurbished Empress Hotel, which for years had mattresses and broken furniture piled on its balconies.

And on this Saturday night, as whispers on the boardwalk said Bruce would make a late-night showing at Wonder Bar, the big draw in town was a Dutch DJ named Tiesto. He was in the electronic cockpit of a sold-out rave at the Paramount, a retinal and tympanic membrane assault of laser lights and synthesized thumps, playing to kids whose parents were teenagers back when Bruce put out "Greetings ..." in 1973.

No, this is not your father’s Asbury Park.

What is amazing is how quickly it changed after languishing so long.

Three years ago, a plastic bag blowing down the Asbury Park boardwalk would have bounced like a tumbleweed as far as the wind took it.

No more. On this Saturday, it ran into the foot of Gary Mottola before it got less than 10 yards. Mottola is president of Madison Marquette, the redevelopers who took over the boardwalk, Stone Pony, Wonder Bar, Convention Hall and the Paramount three year ago.

The man who re-envisioned and re-energized the Asbury beachfront, stepped on the bag, picked it up and threw it in the garbage. No dream too big, no detail too small.

"This is a little like watching your kid grow," he said. "To a parent, it’s incremental. You notice, but the change is not abrupt. Then someone who hasn’t seen the kid in a while says, ‘My God, look how you’ve grown!’ "

This is how Asbury has grown.

Three years ago, parking near the beach was no problem. The round Howard Johnson’s was empty, the historic Paramount and Convention Hall were torn up, the carousel house abandoned, and the pavilions boarded.

Today, cars lap Ocean Avenue and Kingsley Street, looking for a metered space. Howard Johnson’s is now Tim McLoone’s Supper Club and Asbury Grille. The Paramount Theater is mostly renovated, and the summer lineup ranges from Tony Bennett to Rufus Wainwright. The carousel house is a professional theater stage. The pavilions are leased to restaurants and shops. The mix is eclectic. A glassblowers shop. An antique pinball arcade. A surf shop connected to a beach art store connected to an equator-inspired restaurant. A portrait gallery of Jersey-born celebs. Every storefront full.

"These were dilapidated," Mottola says as he walks the boards. "Now look at this."

There is a wait at Stella Marina, a high-end seafood restaurant. The boardwalk tables are full at McLoone’s. "Tommy" at the carousel is fairly packed. At Watermark, an upper-deck lounge, the bar is crowded and the couches hip-to-hip.

"This place is unbelievable," said Brian Knies, 25, at the center of a group of friends. "This is not your standard Jersey Shore scene. We have a friend here with us who travels a lot, and he says this reminds him of South Beach Miami."

"The crowd is more mature," said Ryoto Ishikawa, also 25. "There’s no punks."

Down from the boys were Donna Tumminia and Sonja Dennis, friends from Freehold, and both a good decade more mature than 25.

"I love the energy. It’s a fun place to be," Tumminia said.

For Mottola, nothing speaks more to Asbury’s rebirth than women in pairs or groups.

"They feel safe here. They no longer feel it’s a dangerous place."

And there are cops everywhere. On the miniature golf course, a young girl was heard asking her father, "Daddy, why are there so many police around?"

They’re on foot. On bikes. On the boardwalk, and in parking areas to help visitors figure out the computerized meter system.

It’s all part of the changing culture of the Asbury boardwalk.

Kristina Bannon owns Puckers, a lemonade and french fries stand in one of the free-standing sawed-shipping-container kiosks.

"We’re doing some behavior modification here," she said. "We want it to be a more sophisticated experience. So, I’ll say, ‘Excuse me, why are you throwing that on the boardwalk?’ "

And already it’s to the point where a plastic bag blowing down the boards gets the chief exec’s attention.

Like the Boss once said, "Oh, oh, growing up."

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